Converting a Robo3D to a Dual Bowden

Our friend Mike Kelly on the Robo3D Forum put together an awesome upgrade and set of instructions for the robo3D. Check it out! [divider scroll_text="SCROLL_TEXT"]   [IMG] Click for Thingiverse What is this?: Converts the stock RoBo 3D printer with a single direct feed extruder and replaces it with dual bowden extruder with no loss in x travel. This is just the x-carriage as the cold end will be released separately [IMG] Background: I have designed and fabricated, with the help of tessarect, a dual extruder upgrade to the RoBo 3D printer. As many RoBo 3D owners make the upgrade to a E3D all metal hot end, it makes sense that instead of going from stock hot end to kraken, many users will want to go stock hot end > single E3D > dual E3D to save cost on parts. Note: With that in mind this mod is directed at the latter group of people. If you are on the stock robo 3d hot end and want to upgrade to multi-extruders, I HIGHLY recommend not doing this mod but rather wait for me to release the kraken version. The kraken is smaller, lighter weight, easier to adjust, and provides more options later on. This mod is just inteded for people with an existing E3D looking to add a second. BOM: Printed:
  • 1x X carriage
  • 1x Fan Shroud
  • 1x Flow Director
  • 1x Fan Holder
  • 2x J-Head Saddle
  • 2x J-Head Mount
Hardware: Build Instructions Note: Animations may show the E3D as being fully assembled. Please check instructions to verify when to fully assemble the E3D as it will increase build complexity to have it fully assembled from the start Phase 1: Remove original X-Carriage Watch the original install video to understand how to properly assemble/disassemble the x axis Phase 2: Build Dual X-Carriage Step 1: Assemble J-head mount [IMG] During this step you'll only be using the bowden heatsink from the E3D. Attach the J-head mount and saddle around the heatsink. Press in the 2 M3 nuts in the open slots, this may require a tool to get them fully seated. Once the nuts are in position use 2x M3-25mm screws to secure the saddle to the mount. Step 2: Securing the E3D [IMG] The x carriage is designed to allow the E3D heatsinks to pass through from the top. The height is controlled by two screw/nut/spring combos per side. Only one side needs the spring, though it doesn't hurt to have both sides spring controlled The principle behind this is by tightening/loosening one dual extruder plate you'll be able to lower/raise the nozzle height respectively. You should only need to adjust a small fraction of a mm but this gives you that option. Cut away view of height control: [IMG] The order goes:
  • Push in the M4 nut
  • Screw in the M4-25mm to create a post, ensure on one side the part fan holder is in place depending on if you want it front or rear facing
  • Place the spring into the housing
  • Insert E3D and j-head plate over assemble
  • Secure almost fully tight using the M4 Lock nut
Step 3: Push in bearings You'll need to push the bearings into the holder. I used a bearing press but you could use a vise. ABS is recommended to help prevent splitting. Step 4: Install x end stop screw. Remove from the stock assemble and install in the new one. Step 5: Assemble Fan Shroud [IMG] Ideally you'll want to install your fans in the shroud before installing it on the E3D heatsink. You should only do 3 screws on the outer sides of the fan as it can be difficult to remove the middle ones later. Run the fan wires towards the middle and through the front hole in the case Step 6: Finish assembly of E3D The E3D can now be assembled. The heater cartridges can be fed through the hole in the plate from either direction. Step 7: Assemble Parts fan [IMG] You'll need 4 16mm m3 screws for this. I had to cut 2 of mine down to fit, but since it's self threading it's not a big deal to do. The parts fan and airflow director will need to be tight against the backing otherwise there will be potential for interference with the print. Phase 3: With the X carriage now assembled you'll need to install it as if you were installing the stock x-carriage. I will follow up later with how to calibrate this nozzle. For now please let me know if there's any other steps needed. You can view my entire build photo log here: Click Here to Download!
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